Definitely not run of the Mill at Capparelli!

A quick disclaimer - none of our features are gifted or sponsored. We just like shouting about places that deserve it and that we really love.

Readers, I committed a cardinal sin last weekend… I visited a restaurant within the first 3 months of opening.  Even worse, I was there in the first two weeks!  Anyone who visits a new restaurant this early is an eejit to judge it.  Yes, enjoy letting people know you’ve been and it’s always great to have a nosey, but never judge it.  Let it bed in, then take a view.  So forgive me, it was my mum’s 85th (Happy birthday, Anne!), I lost the run of myself and booked. 

The opening of Capparelli at the Mill has to be one of the most anticipated in Northern Ireland in a very long time and expectations are sky high. I met Carlos Capparelli  when he delivered some of his ready-made dishes to my door during lockdown.  Starved of face to face interaction, I took the opportunity to, in my usual way, interrogate him.  I knew from visiting Nopi in London who he was, and the calibre of his cooking.  Why NI?  What’s the plan?  Carlos and his Belfast born wife Lucie decided to relocate so their young daughters could be closer to their family here, and he knew they wanted to open somewhere of their own.

And boy did they open somewhere, and have done so with the backing of the one and only Yotam Ottolenghi.  Ottolenghi was always our favourite in the original Belfast Cookbook Club,  and is the reason my spice cupboard now looks like a souk! 

Breathing fresh life into the Old Mill at Dundonald, they have created a beautiful space with wild flowers filling every view from the vast windows.  With the addition of Philip Crilly, as well as Niall from Gardener’s Kitchen, we know the palates in the kitchen are excellent!  

What did we have? The hummus with pumpkin seeds and sweet chilli shattah, of course, and it was delicious, so I knew we were in safe hands. The roast aubergine with feta yoghurt and pomegranate was a must, familiar from Ottolenghi’s Simple. The charred beetroot with tahini and hazelnut dukkah completed a perfect trio of small plates to kick things off.

For the table of 4, we opted for the rotisserie chicken which was served with frites and a pink peppercorn aioli and dressed baby gem - this is my favourite thing to eat on a Sunday and was 10/10, comfort food at its absolute best!  We had this with the cauliflower shawarma served with apricot amba, tahini and zhoug - oh just roll me in them.  I could've eaten this all day. And let’s not forget the trout with brown butter, tangy capers, parsley and ribbons of fennel.  A delicate dish, perfectly cooked.  

I am not a sweet person, but if you’re going to offer me pavlova with peaches, cardamon, orange custard and pistachio, damn right I am going to say yes.  Again, we ordered three dishes for the table, including the soft serve vanilla with poached peaches and apricot and polenta cake.  Super tasty all round!   

Let’s not forget the café and shop too, packed to the gills with local produce and Ottolenghi goodies - no need to stock up in London now!

So, should you go? Absolutely! Go with an open mind, a bit of patience and an empty stomach. Capparelli at the Mill is still in its infancy, but the foundations are already rock solid with bold flavours, thoughtful cooking and a space that feels both exciting and comforting. If this is what they’re producing in the first fortnight, I can only imagine how good it will be once they’ve truly found their rhythm.

For me, it was the perfect way to celebrate Mum’s 85th and I look forward to my return visit in two months! 

Words by Caroline Wilson.